DRYBRUSHING
Two things I've
frequently heard about dry brushing, "It destroys my brush" and
"I get a chalky finish, especially with light colors". So, I'm here to help you solve those
problems, and get better results from your efforts. This same technique can be used to get smooth, airbrush like
coats of paint on vehicles.
A forewarning,
you will have to practice this technique to get really good, but you will see
an improvement immediately. To practice
you could paint more miniatures, but you can do it on the cheap. Get a rock that has varying surface textures
and spray it black. Now dry brush it.
The reason
brushes get destroyed by dry brushing techniques is because you are too
brutal. You're 'dry-scrubbing'. Dry brushing is actually gentle on the
brush. Don't get impatient. The perfect dry brush stroke draws the brush
across the surface softly. If you see
more than the slightest hint of color added you are pressing too hard, and/or
using too much paint. I've been advised
by excellent artists, "If you can see the paint going on, you're adding
too much". Of course these people
work on a miniature or diorama for months.
Now don't get me wrong. I'm an
impatient dry brusher and often don't take the time to do it properly. I want the miniature finished on one coat
just like most painters. But the
correct way is light strokes. Don't
poke at the miniature with your bristles and don't scrub the miniature with
your brush.
To solve the
chalky build up problem, you have to thin your paint a lot, very thin, like
milk. I always add an acrylic flow
enhancer, available from craft stores that sell acrylics. That means the paint is going to flow onto
your miniature very easily. Which also
means you have to have very little paint on your brush. The method I use to determine the correct
amount of paint is put a little on the brush.
It should flow into the bristles because it is very thin. (Side note,
you have to thoroughly clean the brush to get the paint by the ferrule
out.) Then I use a textured paper towel
to wipe the brush off. The paper towel
lays flat on the bench, and I drag the brush across it just as if I was dry
brushing the miniature. When the paint
leaves only touches of color on the top of the paper towel texture, now it is
time to bring it to the miniature. Have
patience; use thin paint, thin coats, and gentle strokes.
Let each coat
dry completely or you may find it sticking and pulling off. Its best to either take a break or work on
several miniatures at one time. I
usually leave my table set up, and each evening dry brush one coat on about six
to ten miniatures. If I'm going to do more work it will be on something
else. I won't touch the miniatures
again until the next evening. With a
big squad I'll do that with 10 - 15 guys.
I can actually finish a squad in a week working just one coat per night
starting from assembled and primed miniatures.
After
practicing, you will learn from experience that certain paints can be laid on
more thickly and quicker. Light color
paints are more difficult to keep smooth and benefit more by this
technique. Certain textures, like chain
mail and fur, can be dry brushed more heavily than others. I'm at the point now I can rush certain
colors and textures, but for the really important jobs I fall back to the slow
process. Because I am inpatient, I
reserve my hero miniatures for times when I'm not rushed and feel relaxed and
motivated. Other times I do the rank
and file guys and slap the thick stuff on.
Of course for me, thick means about the thickness of light cream. However, I'm always gentle with my
brushes. They are expensive after all.
Brushes have a
big impact. I don't like GW dry
brushes. I like springy (stiff), yet
soft, bristles. I normally use a thick soft
brush cut short so the bristles don't flex as much, or a stiff filbert (cat's
tongue) brush. Usually WN 7000
series. However, as with anything
artistic, personal preference overrides all advice. All I can say is try different brushes until you get the one that
works for you. I've been using the same
brushes for dry brushing for months and dozens of miniatures, and they're still
going strong.
VEHICLES
In order to get an even finish on large flat areas you need to
work on two main areas, material and techniques. For material, we are
talking about the paint and brush.
Your paint needs to be smooth and thin. It’s much
better to use several thin coats than one thick one. I actually used four
coats of the base color on my vehicles
before highlighting. The more coats you use, the thinner and smoother
they have to be painted on.
For a brush I prefer one called a filbert. It's
also known as a cat's tongue because it is flat and rounded on the end, like a
tongue. I like a soft yet springy feel to the brush. With no
corners, it doesn't leave brush lines as easily, and since it doesn't come to a
point (like the GW tank brush) it gives a wide stroke.
For technique, it is almost the same as dry brushing
regular miniatures, except you don't want your paint dry or drying when you put
it on. That's why you need thin paint. If it starts to dry while
you apply it, you'll get a rough chalky finish. There is little paint on
the brush, and the paint that is on the brush is thin. Draw the brush
across the surface of the model in a smooth stroke, applying only a little
paint at a time. Let the paint dry completely before doing the next
coat. Try and brush at a different angle to the last coat you did.
When you highlight, you want your brush at the flattest possible
angle to the vehicle. Than way it won't
get paint in the corners and deposit more paint on the edges. Use a slightly lighter shade of your base
color. As a final accent, you may want to edge highlight your
model. These are the lightest lines on the very corners of the
model. Often the GW style uses a contrasting color (blue or green on
black for example) to edge the corners. Hold your brush perpendicular to
the corner and draw it along the edge, with the edge touching only the side of
the bristles of the brush. For this job I use a short, stiff brush.